Masriera and Hermanos Art Nouveau choker in 18kt yellow gold.
Art Nouveau frontispiece with marked classical symbolism, decorated with the figure of a lady in profile wearing a draped dress in translucent orange colours, wearing a bonnet decorated with dark blue enamel. The figure is set in a fine and delicate tomb-shaped structure, flanked by columns of rubies with diamonds and delicate green enamelled leaves. The piece is crowned by a brilliant-cut diamond of ca. 0.16 cts, mounted in a chaton setting. Its lower part is decorated with palmettes from which hangs an oval-cut ruby, set at the end, with movement, of ca. 0.15 cts. Chain with an elongated "8" link and flying rings with a ruby alternating with a brilliant-cut, box clasp and safety catch. Total weight of the diamonds 0.30 cts.
Measurements: 5.5 x 3.7 cm (pendant); 26.5 cm (total length).
The piece is inspired by the Masriera style. The firm was founded in Barcelona in 1838 by Josep Masriera Vidal. The process of making the pieces, from the design to the final polishing, was carried out in the family workshop, which gradually expanded as demand increased and, with it, production. By the end of the 19th century, the Masriera workshop was already the most important in the city of Barcelona, winning the Gold Medal and the Unique Prize awarded by the Associació d'Artífexs en Joieria i Plateria de Barcelona (Association of Jewellers and Silversmiths of Barcelona). In 1887 they changed their name to "Masriera Hermanos", and with Josep Masriera Manovens at the helm, production was extended to jewellery, partly thanks to the recovery of various enamelling techniques, together with his son Lluís Masriera Rosés, who became the jeweller of Catalan Modernism, achieving international renown.
Within 19th-century art, Modernisme stood out as a synonym for the will to be modern; a concept, therefore, close to new, modern art. This will was a vital attitude which, in territories such as Catalonia, signified the union of autochthonous tradition, of medieval origins, and European modernity. As Luis Masriera stated, "The modernist jewel clearly expresses the tendency of our time that leads to the absolute empire of the intellect. Its value is mainly based on the beauty and mastery of its sculpture, on the harmony and ideal combination of its enamels and on the whole artistic ensemble of its whole. Today the world of jewellery is a tiny world of things for artists, and it industrialises a flourishing branch of decorative art".