TIFFANY & CO. 18K Gold, Enamel, Demantoid Garnet, Diamond, and Ruby Open Face Pendant Watch
likely designed by Paulding Farnham; ca. 1893; the white porcelain and enamel dial with painted green enamel Arabic numeral indicators, gold dots, and silver stars, with gold filigree hands; the open-work case depicting a dragonfly inset with 10 circle-cut demantoid garnets, 18 old European-cut diamonds, and two circle-cut rubies, cattails, flowers, and lily pads revealing the guilloche green enamel cuvette; enclosing a manual wind movement numbered 109732; signed on dial, cuvette, and movement; inside case inscribed Nellie F. Barker / Waltham, Mass / 1899 and numbered 110051; suspended from a detachable brooch with a complimentary dragonfly motif set with 10 old European-cut diamonds and three circle-cut demantoid garnets; gross: 26.83 dwts.; lg. 3 in. (with brooch); watch lg. 1 5/8 in. (with bale)
Provenance: By descent in the Massachusetts family of the original owner, Nellie F. Barker.
Literature: Loring, John, Tiffany Timepieces, Harry N. Abrams (2004), similar illus. pg. 119.
Other Notes: Accompanied by a Tiffany & Company appraisal dated November 14, 1985.
This pendant watch is a striking example from the series of Louis XV – XVI revival watch covers designed by Paulding Farnham for Tiffany & Company's exhibit at the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition in Chicago. The Exposition, which celebrated the 400th anniversary of Christopher Columbus's arrival in the New World, was one of the famed World's Fairs of the late 19th/early 20th century. These expositions were an international stage for leading designers and luxury retailers to introduce their creations to the world, and only the best of the best was put on display. Paulding Farnham was one of Tiffany's top designers, metallurgists, and enamellists during this era. His style and skill are embodied by this series of watch covers, which were embellished with colorful guilloche enamel with flora and fauna themed gold overlay inset with diamonds and colored stones. These intricate pieces were widely celebrated, and Tiffany & Company won a medal for Farnham's finely designed watch cases at the 1893 Chicago Fair.