6270 Este Ave.
Cincinnati , OH 45232
United States
With offices in Cincinnati, Cleveland and Denver, Cowan’s holds over 40 auctions each year, with annual sales exceeding $16M. We reach buyers around the globe, and take pride in our reputation for integrity, customer service and great results. A full-service house, Cowan’s Auctions specializes in Am...Read more
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Apr 29, 2015 - Apr 30, 2015
A very complete Civil War era Zouave's uniform including an Algerian jacket of fine dark blue wool, trimmed on all edges with a double row of yellow worsted wool braid. Chest trimmed in yellow cord terminating in quatrefoils, cuffs with yellow and light blue braid chevrons and yellow cord trim. The blue wool flannel shirt, completely hand sewn, has yellow braid collar and placket trim with dark bone buttons. Like the shirt, the red flannel trousers are hand sewn, cut in an exaggeratedly baggy fashion and trimmed on the sides of the legs with yellow braid and looped cord, fly closes with dark bone buttons and there are tinned iron buckles on the waist and knee bands. A light blue waist sash completes the basic uniform. Two pieces of headgear are included: a red fez of felted knit wool, the correct manufacturing technique for the mid-nineteenth century, with a black tassel, and a red wool kepi with dark blue band, yellow braid trim and quatrefoil, black enameled leather visor and chin strap with staff pattern eagle side button, leather sweatband and crown disk with maker's mark "TOWERS & Co / CINCINNATI." Towers is listed in an 1860 Cincinnati business directory as a manufacturer and retailer in hats, caps and furs. The business was destroyed by fire in June of that same year.
The Cincinnati Zouave Guards were organized as a volunteer militia unit about 1859, entering Federal service in 1861 as Co. D, 2nd Ohio Infantry, a 3 months regiment, fighting at 1st Manassas (Bull Run). After their early war service, the Zouaves did not fight as unit for the remainder of the war, but many of its members re-enlisted as part of the 5th OVI for three years. After the war the Zouave Guards increased to battalion size and appear to have remained active until the mid-1870s, being re-organized as part of the Ohio National Guard under the name Cincinnati Light Guards.
In the appraiser's opinion, some elements of this uniform could date to the Civil War period. These include the kepi, shirt, trousers and sash. As the uniform design remained unchanged throughout the unit's history, this date estimate is based on the kepi's manufacturer, materials used to construct the shirt and trousers such as the fabric, buttons and, in particular, the pattern of the trouser buckles which are commonly dated to the 1840 - 1860 period. In addition, the shirt appears to be of the same pattern shown in an 1861 photo of Pvt. John Thomas Piggot, Jr. taken while serving in Co. D, 2nd. Ohio. The shirts are trimmed in a different manner in photos taken in 1868. The jacket exhibits higher quality tailoring and materials, and wide spread use of machine sewing which would be expected on a slightly post-war garment. A significant group of mid-19th century military Americana.
Overall the group is very well preserved. The kepi has one small moth hole on the crown and the rear seam on the band, part of the lining removed. The fez has moderate moth tracking on the interior which actually reveals its early construction. The shirt and trousers have scattered very light mothing and service wear. There is a 3" long area of moth damage on the right rear sleeve elbow, does not detract.
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