Central Asia, Afghanistan or Pakistan, Kuchi (Kochi) people, ca. mid-20th century CE. A marvelous example of traditional Kuchi clothing, embellished with cowrie shells, coins, colorful tassels, lapis stones, and nickel-brass ornaments. The piece is constructed from several cotton panels sewn together at the top, with an opening for the wearer's head to fit through and cut so the panels rest on the shoulders and cover the wearer's chest and back, with the sides left open. The exterior is covered with so many adornments, that is quite heavy and likely only worn for special occasions. White cowrie shells are attached in rows along the front and edges. Thin sheets of repousse nickel-brass are cut into various shapes with geometric or foliate forms impressed into the surface and then sewn to the cloth. Cotton or wool threads in colorful hues hem the edges of the cloth. The threads are also strung with glass seed beads and form tasseled ends. Polished lapis stones are set into nickel brass bezels on one side in segmented plates. Close to the neck are various Iranian, Afghani, and Pakistani coins from approximately 1960 CE, welded to pendant findings. This is a quite colorful part of traditional ceremonial dress for the Kuchi people, possibly created for a wedding or other event. Size: 16" L x 17" W (40.6 cm x 43.2 cm)
According to Richard Tapper's article, "Who are the Kuchi? Nomad self-identities in Afghanistan" published in the Journal of Royal Anthropological Institute, "'Kuchi', an Afghan Persian word meaning 'those who go on migrations', is the common generic term, used by both Afghans and foreigners, for the nomads of Afghanistan, as it has been for many decades. Most if not all the nomads, and indeed many long-settled former nomads, now acknowledge this name, yet in the 1960s and 1970s few of those so labelled used the term for themselves."
Provenance: ex-Ashland University Museum, Ashland, Ohio, USA
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#164845
Condition
Some tearing and fraying to interior of cloth. Discoloration and staining as expected with are and use. Fraying to embroidery and threads. Missing some coin pendants, shells, and brass ornaments. Loosening to ornaments. Vibrant tassels and overall good condition. Not recommended for wearing.