Indonesia, Sumatra, Lampung, Kauer peoples, ca. 1900 CE. We are so impressed by the artistry and skill required to create this jacket which was intended for a young unmarried Kauer woman! Comprised of hand-woven cotton fabrics that are beautifully stitched together - the sleeves and bodice display alternating, symmetrically arranged panels of striated gold, crimson, and slate blue hues with solid cornflower blue panels - the wide trim down the center presents an elaborate embroidered calligraphic pattern with tiny gold-hued "mirror" inlays called cermuk - the collar is comprised of vintage fabrics adorned with additional gold-hued mirror inlays encircled by red glass seed beads and miniature cowrie shells. All hand-stitched to a natural linen panel for display. Size: jacket 55" W x 10.5" H (139.7 cm x 26.7 cm); panel 62" W x 26.5" H (157.5 cm x 67.3 cm)
Given the weight of this jacket, it would have been carried in a tampan to a destination to be worn for a celebration. The cowrie or nassa shells were most likely stitched to this jacket as an expression of hope that the young lady wearing the jacket eventually would have many children. The wonderful geometric patterns featured on the jacket reflect ancient Dongson imagery.
Provenance: private Poos collection, Overland Park, Kansas, USA; purchased directly from the artist in 2010 - One of the largest privately held quilt and textile collections in the world, the Poos Collection has evolved over 50 years and through extensive travels to allow for original or point of source acquisition. The collection includes international textiles and garments with an emphasis on West African textiles such as adire, aso oke, kente, and ewe woven prestige cloths as well as textiles from East and Southeast Asia like this example.
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#145911
Condition
Selvage on the left side of linen backing. Slight stains in areas that are difficult to see, otherwise the jacket is in excellent condition. The linen backing shows minor fraying to the peripheries of three sides and a couple of minute stains, but is otherwise in very good condition as well.