Roman, Imperial Period, ca. 3rd century CE. A stunning Roman 20K+ (90% gold) gold necklace with a lovely cameo pendant at the center. 48 gold beads - 24 to either side of the cameo - of a generally oblong embossed form with a circular "head" at each end and may be a variant of a double-headed bird bead are joined via wire loops on the versos. Flanking these beads are 10 loops - 5 on each side - joined to a pear-shaped terminal adorned with flourishes in repousse - one with a loop and the other with a hook. The sardonyx cameo pendant depicts a sophisticated empress - a regal woman with delicate facial features, a gently-sloping neck line surrounded by the folds of her draped garment, and a twisted upswept coiffure - in white against a black ground. It is set within a gold bezel surrounded by a border that is incised with an attractive zigzag motif. Size: 17" L (43.2 cm); cameo w/ border .625" W x .875" H (1.6 cm x 2.2 cm); Total weight: 26.7 grams; Gold quality: 90%, equivalent to 20K+.
Provenance: private Connecticut, USA collection; ex-Christie's, Online "Ancient Jewelry: Wearable Art" auction (sale 16396, November 29 - December 6, 2018, lot 56); ex-private American collection, acquired in 1985; ex-Gawain McKinley, Ancient and Decorative Arts, London; ex-private UK collection, acquired prior to 1976
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#149787
Condition
One bead is missing a circular "head" at one end. Otherwise the beads are very good save expected areas of indentations. Normal indentations to pear-shaped termini. Faint traces of deposits particularly evident on the cameo and its gold border and bezel. Gold elements have developed a warm patina.