Western Europe, Neoclassical Period, ca. 19th century CE. An impressive carnelian cameo of ovoid form, skillfully hand-carved with the image of a Roman emperor, possibly Vespasian, facing left, and set in a stunning gold and pearl pendant. Boasting a hue of blush pink on a deep orange red, the ancient emperor presents a noble profile with a heavy brow above deep-set eyes, a straight nose that points downwards, closed lips, and a protruding chin. A lush laureate crowns his head, sitting atop a naturalistic ear, as well as a luscious coiffure of thick, wavy locks. His shoulder is covered by a target-motif fibula that fastens his toga atop a pleated tunic. The intricate gold pendant forms a twisted motif border around the beautiful cameo, featuring dozens of pearls throughout. Size (pendant): 1.6" W x 2.8" H (4.1 cm x 7.1 cm); (intaglio): 1.1" W x 1.4" H (2.8 cm x 3.6 cm); (necklace strand): 22.3" L (56.6 cm); gold quality: 86.76% (equivalent to 20K+); weight: 33.4 grams
A suspension loop at the top connects it to 2 additional gold and pearl adornments: an arched embellishment, as well as a large, lozenge-shaped loop.
Roman emperors were popular subjects for cameos throughout antiquity, as these private adornments gained cultic significance throughout the Roman empire. Roman wearers used cameos not only to show off their taste and wealth, but also display their devotion to gods or political forces. This Neoclassical cameo clearly draws from that tradition. Both the classical subjects of antiquity and the art of cameo making gained considerable popularity during the 19th century. For example, the Victorian critic John Ruskin wrote that "To engrave is, in final strictness, 'to decorate a surface with furrows.' (Cameos, in their most accurate terms, are minute sculptures, not engravings.)" His claim of cameos being sculptures is in reference to the 3-dimensionality of cameos, which is attained through intensely concentrated work at close range. This work is most appreciated when the sculptor makes use of the strata of the stone in relation to the design, often by contrasting a pale layer against a dark ground, as seen in this example.
According to James David Draper in the "Heilbrunn Timeline of Art" at the Metropolitan Museum of Art website, "The glyptic arts have known various ups and downs, reaching a veritable apex during the mid-nineteenth century. Neoclassicism, whose elegant simplifications were perfectly expressed in cameos, reigned supreme during this period. The heart of the Museum's collection consists of Neoclassical pieces that bear witness to the heroic, concentrated revival of ancient art that took place in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The nineteenth-century French school briefly rivaled the Neoclassical creative center of Rome in the quality of its output, greatly motivated by official encouragement. From the Second Empire to the end of the nineteenth century, cameos increasingly rich in painterly atmospheric effect competed with works of greater size for attention at the Salon in Paris."
Provenance: private East Coast collection, New York, New York, USA, acquired before 2010
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#169411
Condition
Neoclassical pendant strung on modern strand to be wearable. Intact and excellent with nice detail. Old collection label on verso of pendant.