Central Asia, India, Mughal Empire, ca. 17th to 18th century CE. A striking and ornate necklace, composed of twelve large 21K+ gold beads, each spherical, with a broad equator composed of granulations as well as narrower bands of granulations at the poles, highlighting the incredible skill and delicacy of Mughal artisans. Between the two gold beads at the center is a disc-shaped ruby bead, also from the Mughal period. The rest of the necklace is strung with over 100 modern emerald beads, alternating dark and light green, and dozens of gold seed beads to make a wonderfully wearable piece of antique jewelry. Size of pendant: 0.45" W (1.1 cm); size of ruby: 0.1" W (0.3 cm); chain is: 24" L (61 cm); each pendant is comprised of 88% gold (equivalent to 21K+)
Mughal elites adored precious stones, not just for their beauty, but also for protective and magical properties that they believed each stone had. Their incredible jewelry is part of a long tradition that came to its height with the Mughals. When they conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills to set gems with them. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear jewelry like this necklace.
Provenance: ex-Davis collection, Houston, Texas, USA, acquired 2013
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#152231
Condition
The gold pendants and ruby are antique; the gold-colored seed beads, emeralds, and clasp are modern and the necklace has been restrung. is antique; all other beads and clasp are modern. The emeralds and pendants are all in beautiful condition with a few tiny scratches on the ruby.