Central Asia, India, Mughal Empire, ca. early to mid-19th century CE. A gorgeous and dignified brooch of a tall, tapered form with an intricate body made from 5 brass components attached to a central vertical rod. Emulating a flower, this brooch presents with a floral top portion set with 13 faceted white topaz stones surrounding a sizable central white topaz. The remaining sections below each resemble either a cluster of floral blooms and petals, an abstract butterfly with outstretched wings, additional radiating floral petals, and a set of blooms surmounted by a prancing deer. This brooch is inset with a total of 80 faceted white topaz stones that glint and glitter in the light. A hinged pin on the verso enables this brooch to be worn on any vestment and is certain to be a statement piece in any setting! Size (w/o pin): 1.84" W x 5.4" H (4.7 cm x 13.7 cm); (w/ pin): 6" H (15.2 cm); total weight: 68.8 grams
Mughal elites adored precious stones, not just for their beauty, but also for protective and magical properties that they believed each stone had. Their incredible jewelry is part of a long tradition in India that came to its height with the Mughals. When they conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills to set gems with them. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear jewelry like this.
Provenance: East Coast collection, New York Gallery, New York City, New York, USA, acquired before 2010
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#159424
Condition
Wearable as shown. Minor abrasions and indentations to some bezels, with light clouding and abrasions to some white topaz stones, loosening to each section attached to verso rod, and minor tarnishing in some areas, otherwise intact and excellent. Great patina on brass components, and white topaz stones still glint in the light. Fashionable and attractive!