Central Asia, Burma/India border, Nagaland, ca. early to mid 20th century CE. A Chang Naga warrior ceremonial textile comprised of finely woven natural cotton cloth and cowrie shells. This composition features 20 cowrie shell circles (6 being concentric circles and 2 of these with a floral motif at the center) arranged in rows and sewn to a black cloth that is adorned by 9 rows of red squares, 4 yellow stripes flanking these rows of red squares, and a fringed border. A cloak like this was only worn by warriors of elite status who took more than 6 heads. (Note: The practice of headhunting was banned in the 1960's.) According to the South Asia Collection, "The cowrie shells are a symbol of immortality, a sign of fertility and a talisman to ward off evil. The human figures (not in this example) represent the dead and the circles represent both heads and the moon, which is also a symbol of fertility." Size: 57" L x 40" W (144.8 cm x 101.6 cm)
According to the curatorial team of the South Asia Collection, "Nagaland has a strong warrior tradition and headhunting was a significant part of its culture for many years. Strict rules surrounded the practice of headhunting. For example, heads would only be removed from the body after death. By taking the heads of their enemies Naga warriors could provide evidence of their victory, but they also believed the potency of fertility resides in the human head. By removing the head, the warrior released that life force for the benefit of his community ... The Indian Government banned the practice of headhunting in 1960 but Naga jewellery, textiles and festivals continue to reflect this tradition." (https://thesouthasiacollection.co.uk/object-of-the-month/moh-nei-naga-body-cloth/)
Provenance: private Johnson collection, Los Angeles, California, USA
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#147534
Condition
Expected age wear; however, still quite strong and in overall very good condition.