Classical World, Byzantium, ca. 5th to 7th century CE. Fit for a queen, this pair of earrings is comprised of 20K+ gold and gemstones that are all original - 4 white sapphires, 8 garnets (2 cabochons + 6 crescent cloisonne), 10 pearls, 2 chalcedony, and 4 that are either lapis lazuli or blue glass. Each earring features three crescent-shaped cloisonne garnets arranged in a pyramidal form, a wire-set pearl beneath each crescent, a horizontal serpentine gold form with tiny perforations that possibly held tiny inlays, with three dangling pendants hinged below. The central pendant includes a round garnet cabochon set in a gold bezel with a large teardrop shaped chalcedony pendant below. This is flanked by two round sapphire cabochons above a pear-shaped gold element followed by a round cornflower blue glass or possibly lapis bead and a large pearl. All is suspended from a solid gold loop and an ear hook. Size: 3.75" L (including ear hooks) x 1" W (9.5 cm x 2.5 cm); 4.5" H (11.4 cm) on included custom stand. Garnets, sapphires, large pearls .25" D (0.6 cm); chalcedony .5" L x .5" W (1.3 cm x 1.3 cm). Weight: 31.5 grams. Gold quality: 85.7% gold, equivalent to 20K+
Although cloisonne garnets have been found in Byzantine and Migration Period jewelry, the crescentic cloisonne garnet elements on these earrings are rather distinctive. To see earrings with similar elements, see L. Wamser, "Die Welt Von Byzanz-Europas Ostliches Erbe", 2004, p. 300, no. 496.
Provenance: private Connecticut, USA collection; ex-Christie's, Online "Ancient Jewelry - Wearable Art" auction (sale 16396, November 29 - December 6, 2018, lot 2); ex-Bonhams, London (May 1, 2013, lot 233); Bloomberg.com, March 28, 2013; ex-private collection, acquired between 1998 and 2000s; ex-private New York, USA collection, acquired in 1971
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#149789
Condition
Possibly missing tiny inlays to central horizontal serpentine elements, although it is also possible that the tiny recesses were simply intended to stand alone as design elements. A tiny nick or two to crescentic cloisonne garnets and a few scuffs here and there, but otherwise stones are intact. Some deposits to the stones/pearls and gold as shown. Ear hooks are also ancient and make these earrings perfectly wearable.