Near East / Holy Land, Byzantine Empire, ca. 7th century CE. A breathtaking gold bracelet comprised of 89% gold (equivalent to 20K+) and presenting a beautiful eye agate cabochon of caramel brown and white hues set in a gorgeous high gold bezel that is adorned with four s-shaped spirals in repousse separated by four repousse vertical columns that end in prongs to secure the eye agate stone and a lower granulated border. Flanking this are two granulated bands and a substantial solid gold rope-patterned bangle. Size: 2.75" in diameter from end to end (7 cm); agate bead measures .375" in diameter (1 cm); opening for wrist measures 1.75" L x 2.375" W (4.4 cm x 6 cm); 3.125" H (7.9 cm) on included custom stand; gold quality: 89% or equivalent to 20K+; total weight: 65.7 grams.
Interestingly, the Byzantine Emperor Justinian established laws (later called the Justinian Code) that among other things regulated the wearing of jewelry. He stated that sapphires, pearls, and emeralds were reserved for the emperor; however, every free man was actually entitled to wear a gold ring. This suggests widespread popularity of jewelry. After all, such a law would not have been necessary if jewelry had been a strictly aristocratic luxury. Indeed, wealth abounded in the Byzantine Empire. There were gold mines within its borders, and its geographical location was ideal for trade between the East and the West. Individuals including military officers, traders, and high officials reporting to the emperor would all have been able to afford luxurious jewelry like this ring.
Provenance: private Connecticut, USA collection; ex-Nasli M. Heeramaneck, New York, 1960's; ex-Alexander Gallery, New York, USA, 1993
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#149805
Condition
There is a nice clasp to one side of the agate centerpiece that once had a pin but is now missing. This could probably be replaced by a reputable jeweler. Otherwise the bracelet has a few very minor casting flaws, but is otherwise excellent. The agate has only slight surface wear that is very difficult to see with the naked eye. Truly superb!