Central Asia, India, Mughal Empire, ca. early to mid-19th century CE. An enticing brooch of an elegant floral form that is shaped from brass with 67 petite bezels, each holding a faceted white topaz stone that glints in the light. The inverse piriform accessory features 3 flowers stacked atop one another, each surrounded by a series of more petite blossoms, floral petals, vines, and stems, and almost every large component bears a bezel containing a white topaz. Each of the larger 4 components are secured to attachment holes within a central vertical rod on the verso, and a hinged pin on the verso rests within a C-shaped pin housing. Covered in lustrous patina, this is a fabulous jewelry piece ready to accentuate any outfit! Size: 2.2" W x 4.4" H (5.6 cm x 11.2 cm); total weight: 43.7 grams
Mughal elites adored precious stones, not just for their beauty, but also for protective and magical properties that they believed each stone had. Their incredible jewelry is part of a long tradition in India that came to its height with the Mughals. When they conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills to set gems with them. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear jewelry like this.
Provenance: East Coast collection, New York Gallery, New York City, New York, USA, acquired before 2010
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#159425
Condition
Wearable as shown. Loss to 1 white topaz in bottom bezel. Slight pending to pin on verso, with light tarnishing to some brass components, and light abrasions and clouding to some white topaz stones, otherwise intact and very good. Nice patina throughout. Attractive and entrancing!