Native American, Pacific Northwest, United States or Canada, Haida or Tlingit peoples, ca. early to mid-20th century CE. A remarkable example of traditional clothing known as a button blanket; a crest-style robe created for ceremonial use made from wool trade strouds and button accents. The central textile is a large dark brown wool panel, with red felt appliques and border. The appliques are hand stitched and depict a totemic bear with dozens of white buttons outlining the form. Additional buttons adorn the red border. A button blanket is a simple wool stroud that has been transformed into an item of pride - embellished with buttons and a central crest figure or symbol that denotes clan or family affiliation to wear during dances and potlatches. This is a truly fine example, and each stitch is visible on the verso, which demonstrates the painstaking and time-consuming process of hand stitching this intricate piece! Size: 44" L x 34" W (111.8 cm x 86.4 cm)
Robes, chilkats, and ceremonial capes were traditionally worn by Northwestern tribes to denote rank and clans, and before European contact, theses were usually made from hide, woven cedar bark, or even dog hair. In the 19th century the Hudson Bay Company traded many wool blankets with the coastal tribes and these plain blankets were transformed into the ceremonial and dancing regalia with the addition of buttons, appliques, and beads.
According to Polly Sargent and Doreen Jensen, co-authors of "Robes of Power: Totem Poles on Cloth" (1995) - the first oral history about these traditional works of fabric art and ritual, "The button blanket is eye-catching, prestigious and treasured - one of the most spectacular embellishments to the Indian culture of the Northwest Coast and a unique form of graphic and narrative art. The traditional crest-style robe is the sister of the totem pole and, like the pole, proclaims hereditary rights, obligations and powers. Unlike the pole, about which countless books and papers have been written, the button blanket has no chroniclers."
Provenance: private Alamo, California, USA collection, before 2000
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#167569
Condition
Choice. Minor fraying to button threads and seams of red border, but all pieces are secure and intact. Slight fading to red cloth pigments. We recommend mounting in a case to protect the fibers.