**First Time At Auction**
Central Africa, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kuba peoples, Ngeende subgroup, ca. early to mid-20th century CE. A remarkable beaded headdress known as a mpaan, which is worn by senior female title holders in Kuba society. The elaborate cap is adorned with cowrie shells, glass beads, cloth, and a fabulous plumed top. Formed with a burlap-lined wicker basket-like frame, the impressive hat displays hundreds of navy, scarlet, and white glass beads sewn with rattan fiber in lovely zigzag, rhomboid, and spiral motifs, as well as dozens of cowrie shells in crisscross designs, all sewn onto cloth in hues of rosy pink, lemon yellow, and emerald. The back portion of the headdress is adorned by a projecting tier, also intricately embellished with beads and cowrie shells, and featuring 3 decorative knobs that extend outwards, while a large tuft of caramel-hued feathers bloom from the top, surrounded by an undulating border of more cowrie shells and beads. The rich plumage is capped with a petite beaded adornment of hemispherical form. The undulating border nearly parallels the dramatic periphery of the headdress, which features a V-shape across the wearer's forehead. Note - the yellow and green cloth is embellished by an avian design, perhaps a reference to the feathered cap! Size: 13.25" L x 13" W x 13" H (33.7 cm x 33 cm x 33 cm); 22" H (55.9 cm) on included custom stand.
The white cowrie shells are from the Indian Ocean (about 1,500 miles from the Kuba peoples) and were attained by trade via the Kasai River region of central Africa. Cowrie shells were not only used as currency in exchange for ivory, but also represent death, mourning, and ancestors' bones to the Kuba peoples.
Provenance: private Chicago, Illinois, USA collection; ex-Doug Dawson Gallery, Chicago, Illinois, USA; ex-B.C. Holland Gallery, Chicago, Illinois, USA
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#164358
Condition
Some very light fraying to rattan fibre and fabric in a few small areas. Otherwise, intact and excellent.