West Africa, Nigeria, Yoruba Culture, ca. early to mid-20th century. A spectacular tunic and hat made from cotton cloth and covered with thousands of glass seed beads and shells to form colorful patterns and symbols. The hat is a skull cap design with a rounded, squat profile, and surmounting the top is a beaded cloth bird finial. The surface of the hat is also covered with a ground of beadwork in cobalt blue with stylized faces in black, red, and white. The tunic is constructed from several panels of cloth, necessary to support the superb beadwork, which adds substantial weight to this piece. The frontside is made up of triangular sections that contain abstract anthropomorphic faces that consist of a linear mouth, protruding human eyes and nose with ritualistic tattoos or scars flanking the nose, all on a solid beaded ground. The faces are bordered by strips of cloth that contain only cowrie shells. Abstract snakes in green and brown beads are depicted along the shoulders. Simple pockets are sewn into the sides to connect the front and back tunic panels. In addition to the faces and snakes, fish and Guinea fowl birds decorate the verso of the tunic, and smaller patterns of triangular beadwork outline the motifs. This tunic and cap were intended for a man of prestige such as a king or priest to wear. This beadwork must have taken hundreds of painstaking hours to complete, and the result is simply gorgeous. Size of hat: 7.5" W x 5.5" H (19 cm x 14 cm) tunic: 30" L x 21.5" W (76.2 cm x 54.6 cm) Size: 56" H (142.2 cm) on included custom stand.
During events and festivals, the Yoruba king and priests of the Shango religion would wear a beaded tunic such as this example, as part of the ceremonial dress. Even though the Yoruba have a long history of glassmaking, the beads used to make this special clothing were imported from the British during the late 19th century. During this period, glass beads signified high status and substantial wealth. Such petite European "seed beads" were thought to be particularly special, due to their uniform size and wide variety of colors. Wearing clothing covered with so many precious beads would certainly indicate rank and wealth.
The numerous faces may represent Oduduwa, a divine and heroic king that defeated numerous enemies and united the Yoruba people. Oduduwa’s face symbolize the sacred authority of the wearer and the bird finial surmounted on the cap also indicated the wearer as a descendant of this divine king. While wearing the cap and tunic, the wearer was protected from evil spirits.
Provenance: private Orange County, California, USA collection, acquired before 2000
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#164908
Condition
Discoloration and mineral deposits on interior of cap. Light mineral deposits on exterior beading. Bird finial is slightly loose. Some fraying on interior hem and exterior threads. Missing several beads below one face on cap. Fraying of threads and hems and pockets on tunic. Beading on tunic is otherwise excellent with only small areas of losses. Several slightly loose cowrie shells. Discoloration and staining of fabric. Colorful and well preserved.