Central America, Panama, San Blas Islands, Kuna/Cuna, mid to late 20th century. Two vintage Kuna blouses decorated with colorful molas as well as a third mola with a Panamanian coat of arms. The larger blouse includes a mola with two figures, seated in opposition to one another with bowed heads above four symmetrically arranged birds. In the corners are stylized geometric motifs. The blouse is a sunny yellow hue with orange-on-black rickrack and blue-green/pink fabric trim. The smaller pink blouse presents a mola with a maze-like pattern that is perhaps inspired by zoomorphic or organic forms and additional rickrack and ribbon-like trims. The molas on both of these blouses are comprised of many layers of fabrics that present a virtual rainbow of brilliant colors! Size of larger mola: 26" W x 20.25" H (66 cm x 51.4 cm); Size of smaller mola: 17" W x 14.5" H (43.2 cm x 36.8 cm); Size of coat of arms: 11" W x 10.25" H (27.9 cm x 26 cm)
The mola that presents the Panamanian coat of arms is more modern than the two blouses. It features an eagle with embroidered details and outspread wings, holding a ribbon with "PRO MUNDI BENEFICIO" (for the benefit of the world - a motto of Panama that refers to the canal which divides the country physically but provides it with a significant amount of the national income) above the crest which also features wonderful embroidered details, yellow stars above the eagle, and white on blue maze-like motifs as the background.
Molas are cloth panels attached to the fronts and backs of women's blouses that are the cultural dress of Kuna women, along with gold nose rings, beaded arm and leg bands, and patterned wrap-around skirts. The folk craft of creating molas began about 125 years ago when the Kunas moved from the mainland to the islands. In their new environment, cooler nights necessitated warmer clothing. At first, women created blouses adorned with simple applique borders, but as time went on, they increased the scale of the decorative areas until the entire front and back panels were comprised of multi-layered, quilted textile designs. This distinctive art form has evolved into a tradition of exceptionally fine needlework and meaningful symbolism.
Provenance: private Boulder, Colorado, USA collection acquired 2020; larger blouse is ex-Elizabeth Clark, smaller blouse acquired from San Blas Islands missionaries in mid-20th century
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#157658
Condition
Expected age wear with some areas of loss, fraying, and loose fibers commensurate with age. Minor fading to coloration.