Europe, Austria, Victorian Era, ca. 1870 to 1890. Simply stunning, this Victorian wedding set, dripping with diamonds and emeralds as well as freshwater pearls, exemplifies opulence. True to Victorian style, the goldwork of the necklace presents ribbon and floral motifs embellished with 60.00 CTS of faceted and cabochon emeralds and 40.00 CTS of rose cut diamonds. The design also features elegant danglers presenting diamonds and emeralds as well as white pearls to imbue it with an even grander sense of luxury. Behind the neck is a band of ovoid links set with diamond and emerald inlays that resolves in a clasp featuring a large emerald cabochon. Size (necklace): 15.3" L (38.9 cm); (central emerald): 0.25" W x 0.4" H (0.6 cm x 1 cm); total weight: 60.1 grams; Size (tiara): 5.625" W x 2.625" H (14.3 cm x 6.7 cm); (central emerald): 0.3" W x 0.45" H (0.8 cm x 1.1 cm); total weight: 76.4 grams. Precious metal content: Necklace is 50% gold, equivalent to 12K; Tiara is gilded (20% gold, 30% silver) copper.
The elegant tiara features 12 faceted emeralds and 9 large rose cut diamonds as well as many smaller diamonds and brings to mind the love story of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert who were married for 21 years. In 1845, Prince Albert gave Queen Victoria an emerald tiara (part of an ensemble that also included a necklace, brooch, and earrings) that he himself designed for their 6 year wedding anniversary. This ensemble was exhibited at Kensington Palace for the first time in the 2018 exhibition entitled "Victoria Revealed," and the tiara is the only tiara designed by a consort for his Queen. It was made by Joseph Kitching, the Queen's jeweler, who followed Albert's design. Queen Victoria was so moved by the gift that she wrote about her husband's "wonderful taste" and about wearing this "lovely Diadem of diamonds and emeralds designed by my beloved Albert" in her journal.
Provenance: private East Coast collection, New York, USA; ex-East Coast collection, New York Gallery, New York City, New York, USA, acquired before 2010
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#153413
Condition
Necklace has two diamonds missing from clasp buckle. Hairpiece has repair to central emerald from two large pieces, with light adhesive residue along break lines, and reinserted into setting. Both items have abrasions and minor nicks to some diamonds and emeralds, with slight bending to some metal components. Great patina throughout.