Central Asia, Turkmenistan and Afghanistan, Turkoman (Turkman) Tekke peoples, ca. 19th century CE. A striking cast 85.8% silver bracelet consisting of four horizontal panels adorned with incised scrollwork motifs and 12 ovoid glass inlays of fiery vermilion hues. The exterior is covered in a thin layer of gilding - comprised of 51% to 65% gold - making for a golden glow that contrasts with the exposed silver of the 18 spikes that line the opening, 9 on either side. Quality of silver: 85.8%. Quality of gilding: 51% to 65%. Size: 4.25" L x 2.625" W (10.8 cm x 6.7 cm)
Fabulous jewelry like this was a hallmark of elite men and women in the Turkoman society. Powerful people wore the items they commissioned or gave them as diplomatic gifts to rulers and elites in other countries as a way of showcasing the wealth of their own region. Jewelers worked on commissions from the richest members of society, obtaining precious metal from various mountains in the area, including Ferghana and the Zartalash east of Tashkent. Artisans in cities like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent kept alive metalworking traditions once common in the medieval period long after Europeans lost them.
Provenance: private Hawaii, USA collection, ex Beverly Hills, California, USA collection
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#140970
Condition
Some very minor wear to gilding as shown, else excellent.