Central Asia, Afghanistan, Turkoman, ca. late 19th to early 20th century CE. A stunning antique gilt silver bracelet comprised of 2 horizontal registers that each feature 3 ovoid carnelian stones - 6 in total - set in silver bezels amidst a fire-gilded ground that is engraved with beautiful curvilinear motifs. The raised borders framing these registers are also incised with diagonal, cord-patterns, while the peripheries are adorned with gilt, openwork decoration of a scrolling design. The ends of the cuff resolve in 14 petaloid terminals, 7 on each side. Size (of bracelet): 2.9" L x 1.8" W (7.4 cm x 4.6 cm); Size (of wrist opening): 2.2" W (5.6 cm); silver quality: 95%; weight: 155 grams
Fabulous jewelry like this was a hallmark of elite men and women in the Turkoman society. Powerful people wore the items they commissioned or gave them as diplomatic gifts to rulers and elites in other countries as a way of showcasing the wealth of their own region. Jewelers worked on commissions from the richest members of society, obtaining precious metal from various mountains in the area, including Ferghana and the Zartalash east of Tashkent. Jewelers worked with a variety of different precious and semi-precious stones, also sourced from far afield. Artisans in cities like Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent kept alive metalworking traditions once common in the medieval period long after Europeans lost them.
Provenance: private Hawaii, USA collection, acquired from 1995 to 2010; ex-Beverly Hills collection, Los Angeles, California, USA
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#168298
Condition
Wearable as shown. Minor abrasions to bracelet and carnelian stones, with light fading to gilding in some areas, otherwise intact and very good. Wonderful patina throughout. Collection label on interior of band.