Native American, Santee Sioux (Central and Northern Plains), ca. late 19th to early 20th century CE. A beautifully preserved, hand-tanned antelope hide shirt featuring colorful beaded embroidery around the cuffs, outlining the broad collar, and highlighting the single chest pocket. The shirt features a triangular opening that extends nearly halfway down the front of the shirt from the collar and is buttoned up with four plastic buttons that are a modern addition to the shirt. The open neck style is the result of the potent cultural milieu of this era, as Native Americans and settler Americans engaged in trade of goods and ideas - including fashion. Size when laid flat: 16.75" W x 33.25" H (42.5 cm x 84.5 cm)
The beaded embroidery is incredibly well preserved. Delicate pink and purple five-petaled flowers on narrow deep green stems with leaves create bursts of color that draw the eye to the edges of the shirt. The pocket features a maroon, cornstalk-like plant surrounded by a pink border with green leaves. This style was common in the Northern Plains and Western Great Lakes during the late 19th century.
See a similar Native American shirt from the Brooklyn Museum (32.2099.32577).
Provenance: private Glorieta, New Mexico, USA collection
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#149324
Condition
Beaded embroidery is all in beautiful condition except for a few tiny losses to the area on the back of the collar. The plastic buttons are a modern addition. The shirt itself has some loose stitches and wear commensurate with age and having been worn. This includes some light staining and areas where the hide has been rubbed.