**First Time At Auction**
Northwestern India, Mughal Empire, ca. 19th century CE. A beautiful necklace panel known as a guluband, the pendant made of high-quality 78.51% (equivalent to 18K+) gold and Kundan settings containing gemstones: emeralds, diamonds, and rubies, and pearls strung on a wire threaded around the periphery. The center 3 settings are inlaid with cobalt blue and green glass surround the gemstones. Dangling emerald beads around the lower edge and links for securing to the rest of the necklace at both tips - this could be reattached to a chain as a wearable piece! A guluband necklace is made up of multiple panels or singular, attached together with strands or pearls or beading to fit like a choker. Size: 3" L x 1" W (7.6 cm x 2.5 cm); 78.51% (equivalent to 18K+); weight: 34.9 grams
The amazing craftmanship of this piece is a combination of Iranian Islamic and Indian Hindu artistic practices that came together under the Mughal empire. Mughal elites adored precious stones, not just for their beauty, but also for protective and magical properties that they believed each stone possessed. When the Mughals conquered India from Central Asia, they brought the technical skills of setting gems and incorporated the traditional Indian styles of goldwork - including Kundan - into their jewelry that contained Middle Eastern elements - such as intricate floral patterns and heavy stonework, as seen here. Kundan stones (Kundan meaning "highly refined gold") is the traditional North Indian Rajasthan way of setting gemstones on and between gold foil to enhance their coloration, and the pure molten gold helped achieve the tight setting. Jewelry was a crucial part of visual authority for Mughal rulers, and strategic marriages between Mughal royalty and members of Rajput aristocracy were often arranged - for both political reasons and Rajasthan's renowned jewelry production. In order to enforce their high social status, the Mughals passed Sumptuary Laws that decreed only members of the upper class could wear opulent jewelry.
Provenance: private Boynton Beach, Florida, USA collection; ex-Rajiv Mehra collection, Delhi, India
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#177545
Condition
Pendant is from a larger necklace. Nicks and several stable striations on gemstones. Surface wear commensurate with use and age. Overall great condition.