India or Europe, ca. 1920s to 1930s. A gorgeous jewelry ensemble that is sure to turn heads. The set includes a jewel encrusted silver bib necklace and matching drop earrings. Each piece is embellished with a melange of diamond chips, rubies, sapphires, and emeralds. Fourteen of the rubies and sapphires are carved to resemble lovely leaves, while the other sapphires and rubies are cut in faceted pear shapes. A truly magnificent treasure of wearable art, this exquisite set is crafted in a style that inspired the so-called 'Tutti Frutti' style made popular by Cartier and demonstrates fine craftmanship. Caratage: Necklace includes approximately 6 carats of emeralds, 5 carats of sapphires, and 11.5 carats of rubies. The two earrings (together) include approximately .8 carats of emeralds, 3 carats of sapphires, and 7 carats of rubies. The mine cut diamond chips measure 1 to 2 carats in total. Silver quality: 60-70%. Total weight: 62.7 grams. Size of necklace: 18" L (45.7 cm) Size of bib at widest point: 1.625" W (4.1 cm) Size of pendant: 1.5" L x .75" W (3.8 cm x 1.9 cm) Size of earrings: 2.5" L x 1.125" W (6.4 cm x 2.9 cm)
Inspired by traditional Indian jewelry, Cartier created "tutti frutti" jewlery comprised of emeralds, rubies, and sapphires, many of which were carved or sculpted into the shapes of leaves, berries, or flowers. These color combinations were new and exciting, and each piece demonstrated technique that was beyond impressive. According to the Cartier website, "For Tutti Frutti creations, the journey from a sketch to the realized object represents the first challenge. This stage entails numerous unknown elements and requires minute adjustments, sometimes even re-conceptions. Another unique challenge to Tutti Frutti is that the carved stones must never overlay each other. The jeweler's design and create fine, custom, invisible and light armatures that are affixed to the back of the necklace like metal lace. For adjustable pieces, the modularity requires the use of ingenious constructions which are entirely undetectable."
According to Sotheby's jewelry expert Frank Everett, "Although the name 'Tutti Frutti' wasn't coined until the 1970s, these creations from the 1920s-30s always incorporate Moghul-style carved colored gemstones in natural motifs: flowers, leaves, berries and fruits. These carved stones, so popular in traditional Indian jewelry, were then mounted by Cartier in platinum and diamond settings, a perfect marriage of East and West."
Provenance: ex-Davis collection, Houston, Texas, acquired before 2013 from various auction houses in London and New York
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#150462
Condition
Necklace and earrings are in excellent condition. New backs fitted to earrings to make wearable. New hook and loops added to necklace to fasten. Stones appear to be in very good condition. Slight indentations to bezels, but stones are very well preserved.