North Pacific, Hawaiian Islands, ca. 1890s CE. A gorgeous ensemble of 4 flexible bracelets and a brooch, each constructed from glinting gold and hand-carved ebony wood. Each bracelet is formed with 15 ovoid ebony inlays within form-fitting settings, the largest 3 ovals in the center with elegantly bifurcated panels, as well as a box clasp and hinged pin for terminals to enable wearability. The backings of 2 bracelets are engraved with the statement, "From Mary to Gladys," and engraved on the versos of the remaining 2 bracelets is, "E. Rycroft from M.P.R." Last is a heart-shaped brooch with an articulating pin and catch on the verso as well as a bulging ebony inlay that resembles the exterior of a walnut shell or perhaps the shell of a kukui nut. Size of each bracelet (all are nearly identical): 7.2" L x 1.14" W (18.3 cm x 2.9 cm); (largest ebony): 1.14" L x 0.38" W (2.9 cm x 1 cm); (brooch): 1.55" W x 1.5" H (3.9 cm x 3.8 cm); gold quality: 55.54% to 55.99% (equivalent to 12K+) for "From Mary to Gladys" bracelets, 63.85% to 64.56% (equivalent to 15K+) for "E. Rycroft from MPR" bracelets, and 62.25% (equivalent to 15K+) for brooch; total weight: 134.2 grams
Provenance: private San Francisco, California, USA collection, acquired 1970s to 2000s
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#171066
Condition
Restoration to 1 full ebony inlay and half of an ebony inlay on the same bracelet, and restoration to 1 full ebony inlay on another bracelet; remaining ebony inlays are intact and very good. Light fading to etched wording on versos of some bracelets but all text is still visible and legible. Chain links flex smoothly, and brooch pin still articulates smoothly. Great patina to gold and ebony components.